Friday, October 24, 2008
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Sorry that was so much info and it was all jumbled, I'm still pretty tired from yesterday's travels. I'll try to clear things up more later. But for right now I'm safe and sound. A little bored, but safe. Keep your fingers crossed that things get sorted out soon!!
Friday, September 5, 2008
OK folks, this is gonna be a long one, so bare with me. The good news is that I am writing this from good old Charagua, so that means that I at least escaped Santa Cruz, but believe me, it wasn’t easy. Since we had never intentionally meant to go to Santa Cruz (we were on our way down south to give a presentation), we were basically trying to get back to Charagua since last Wednesday. Each day we’d call the security guy asking if we could go, but each day the bloqueo continued and thus we were stuck with nothing to do but spend money and wish we were back. We even bought a return ticket for Monday after talking to the flota lady who said that the flotas were running and could avoid the blockades, but were denied permission to leave because it was thought that it was too dangerous. But I guess our tactic of calling the security guy day in and day out for a week finally paid off because Wednesday morning, although the bloqueos were still in place, we were granted permission to take the flota. As soon as we got the go ahead we ran (or took a taxi, same thing) to the flota place to be given the very last (and also the crappiest) seats on the bus. So at 2pm Wednesday we took off headed for home sweet home. I should also mention that it was a bazillion degrees and 130% humidity, so this trip was no picnic. I wore a skirt hoping for a breeze, but alas no breeze blows on an overcrowded bus with bags on your lap. Anyway, as we were nearing the outskirts of the city, the driver suddenly took a turn down a tiny dirt road. I figured this was some sort of short cut to get around the bloqueos and thought nothing of it. Soon after, however, we find ourselves at the end of a long long long line of other buses, cars, and trucks. We were blocked!! I was so mad!! Here we were, only 30 minutes into our trip when we become blocked! And there was no way to turn around either because we were surrounded on both sides by fences and behind us more cars and buses were already coming up and trapping us. I kept telling myself that we should have just followed the security guy’s advice and waited until the blockade was over! This was awful! All these ideas kept running through my head of ways to go back. I figured we could jump onto the roof of the bus and undo the tarp which covered our bags, then walk the couple miles back to the city and catch a taxi from there. Or if that didn’t work I could call the Santa Cruz office and have them send emergency help to come get us (although I think at that point we were out of phone service range). I was sure we were going to be stuck for at least the night, so I already started planning out where I would put my sleeping bag and pad (luckily we had our camping stuff because we were planning on camping where we were going to give our presentation) and how for dinner we were going to share the three cookies I had left over from lunch. Ben, however, was reading a book and paid absolutely no attention to any of this. I guess it’s good that at least one of us was calm. An hour passes as we wait in that hot sweaty bus, in the very back seat whose seats do not recline, baking in the sun. At this point I’m about to implent my emergency plan, when the bus slowly starts crawling ahead, following the buses in front of it. Hope! Then it stops for a minute or so. Despair! Then it goes again! Hope! Then it stops again. Despair! It goes on like that for another 20 minutes or so, until we finally, somehow make it onto a paved road!! Yes!! Finally, we were in business! Even though we were an hour and a half behind schedule, I was still feeling pretty good. We continued on this way for an hour or so, when all of a sudden a back tire, the one directly below my seat, blew out. I was crushed. I couldn’t believe this was happening!! We were in the middle of nowhere and we all had to evacuate the bus while the guys replaced the flat tire, then patched the bad tire and filled it with air. This took another 40 minutes or so. Although I must say that I was thankful for the pee break. Now only 2 and a quarter hours behind schedule. Oh well, oh well, no problem. After a few more miles, we come upon a huge mountain of sand and rocks placed directly in the middle of the road in an effort to block traffic. We couldn’t pass it. So, unperturbed, the driver basically makes his own path onto a back road, which we take for a half hour or so until we are beyond the dirt mountain. And let me tell you, the back of the bus feels every pebble, every dip, every bump in the road 1,000 times more than the people in the front. Seriously, my tailbone is sore from all the ups and down of last night’s trip. I spent half the time in the air and half the time in my seat. At one point I actually had to hold onto my own neck to keep it from getting knocked around. Anyway, after the adventurous back roads adventure, we finally make it into our normal pee stop. I bought a soda to quench my thirst and shove my way up to a stand to get my hands on some food since I know we won’t make it home at a decent hour to eat dinner. Whatever it was they were selling and that I ate, I got the very last one. I really don’t know how to describe it except that it was a little ball of fried something. Ben wouldn’t even eat it! It had a potatoey taste and I think there was even some beef in it. Who knows? All I knew was that I was hungry and I wanted to eat whatever it was that was sitting there. And even though it was cold and probably had been sitting in that guy’s basket for a while, it was actually pretty tasty! So after that little stop we were back on the road. Another half hour and we were at the end of the paved road, about to get onto the dirt road that leads straight to Charagua. From there it’s usually about four hours to Charagua, so I was guessing we would get in around 11pm (normal arrival time 8pm). Boy was I wrong, but in a good way. That driver sped the entire way!! I had never seen anything like it. It’s pitch black outside and he’s taking those turns like he was in a racecar, not a top heavy loaded bus full of innocent people!! The wheels were creaking, luggage was flopping all over the bus, and I was holding onto my neck so that it didn’t snap off! Sleeping or even resting was impossible. You were literally bouncing up and down in your seat. My head hit the seat in front of me, my own seat, and the window several times. Despite all the pain and discomfort, it was the funnest experience ever. It was literally like the world’s longest rollercoaster. It had the same speed, the same turns, the same queasy feeling in the pit of your stomach; it was amazing! Ben was a little less happy about it then me, but I certainly enjoyed myself. Plus, we ended up getting into Charagua at 9pm. The driver saved us two entire hours with his wonderful reckless driving! In short, he was my hero. We even passed a small forest fire like it nothing. I don’t know what was going on there, but we sped through charred trees, still glowing red from the recent fire.
And that’s not the end. So the next morning (today) we wake up and take our time to unpack, water the plants, eat breakfast, etc. At 9am I finally go talk to my land lady to pay the rent. She tells me that if I need to buy food I had better hurry over to the mercado right this second because Santa Cruz has enacted a paro civico (it’s like a department-wide strike) and that the market is closing in one hour for the next several days!!! I couldn’t believe it! Not only that, there is a blockade in Charagua, too, so that if we had tried to leave from Santa Cruz today we would be out of luck. Basically we had got in at the last possible moment. I think the blockade and paro civico are going to last until at least Saturday, and maybe even until Monday. I sprinted to the market and bought as much as I could (it was slim pickings since everyone else heard about the paro before me and cleaned out the place) so that I’ll have food for as long as this strike lasts. Even the teachers are on strike! The kids went to school today like always, and then were sent home at 10am as the strike started. We couldn’t even talk to the school director because she left as soon as the strike started! I then went to talk to my work partner about building the vivero, and he said he was on his way to go help with the blockade efforts!! He’s going out with a bunch of guys to put more dirt and sticks on the road. When I asked him when he’s going to return he said “well it all depends on if I get shot at by the police or not”!!!! Basically everything has shut down in Santa Cruz for a while. The reason for all the madness is way over my head, but this is what I’ve gathered so far. Santa Cruz has a lot of natural gas that they use within the country and export to neighboring countries as well. In the past 85% of the money Santa Cruz makes off it went to the federal government and 15% went back to Santa Cruz to do with it what they wanted (school breakfasts, etc). Now, however, the president is dividing that 15% among all 9 departments, so Santa Cruz is pissed. I guess a lot of programs depended on that 15% and now it is not going to be there. I don’t know if this problem can be resolved by blockading roads and not working, but I guess we’ll just have to wait and see what happens. I’m just worried because a lot of the projects I’m planning need funding that now might not be there. But I haven’t given up hope yet.
In other news (amazing news, I might add), we found Oso and he’s alive!!! He is now walking on all fours and looking much better. His jaw bone is still sticking out (the skin and flesh around it is gone), but I think it’s fine. He’ll look a little funny from now on, but at least he’s healed!! I bought a chicken in celebration, so now he’ll dine on chicken feet, guts, neck, and head!! Yay!! Our plants are also getting bigger, and we’re going to be transplanting them soon. In short, I’m glad to be back in Charagua and anxious for all this fighting and protesting mumbo jumbo to be over. I guess we’ll just take it one day at a time and see what happens!!
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Friday, August 29, 2008
Monday, August 18, 2008
So it’s been a while since I’ve written and there’s been a zillion things going on. I’ll try my best to catch you all up on what I’ve been doing. Ok, last Sunday, August 10th, there was a voting held throughout all of Bolivia to determine if the people wanted the president to remain in power or not. He was certain that the people liked him, despite what some were saying, so he kind of challenged the country to a voting. Not that he would get kicked out or anything would change if he didn’t get the 51%, he just wanted to know if he was liked by the majority. At the same time they also polled the people on if they liked the prefectos of each department (I guess they would be like the governors), although I think that those guys would be kicked out if they didn’t get the majority vote. So that was all fine and dandy, but the weeks leading up to the election were a little dicey for peace corps volunteers. We were accused many times of being spies for the U.S., the president’s helicopter crashed and he doesn{t think it was an accident (although he hasn{t come out and blamed anyone yet), the American embassy was attacked and the next day the Bolivian police that helped protect the building were fired, and two volunteers received threats in their sites that if they weren’t removed something bad would happen. So needless to say we were on alert. The new director decided that it would be best if all of the volunteers were consolidated in a safe location before and during the voting, just so that we’d be safe in case things got crazy. Therefore, the Sunday before the election, or two Sundays ago, all 120 or so of the volunteers, from all departments gathered in a secure location (I’m not allowed to say where) to wait it out. And although it sounds scary and ominous, it was a blast! I got to see everyone from training and got to meet tons of new people. We stayed in a REALLY nice place, with a pool, a volleyball court, basketball court, soccer field, and more. Every 4 or 5 of us shared these cute little cabins that came equipped with two bathrooms, a frig, and a tv! It was awesome! And our meals were all paid for, all we had to do was show up and eat! It was a little strange, though; we had to sign in with the security guard at every meal, breakfast, lunch and dinner. One of my friends decided to sleep in on Saturday, and soon the security guard came looking for him, thinking he was a missing person and that it had to be reported to Washington. These guys meant business. In general we spent our days either in boring (but helpful) meetings, or with “free time” meetings where we could discuss whatever we wanted. And of course in the evenings there were always games going on. You could choose from basketball, volleyball, soccer, or swimming. I played my heart out at soccer two days in a row, and on the third I discovered that I could no longer walk. I guess I’m not as young as I used to be. After that I just kind of hobbled around and read by the pool. Ok, so up until Monday night, no one had any idea of how long we would be staying. It was like we were in a time warp, just waiting to get some news of the outside world, but not really caring either way since we were all having so much fun. Finally on Monday night we heard that Sunday went Ok, Evo got 60% of the vote, my perfecto got voted back in (every perfecto except for Oruro and Cochabamba, I think), and there were no major incidences. So Tuesday morning we were packed up and ready to get out of there by 8am.
Most everyone went straight to their sites, except for the Santa Cruz volunteers in my group, who had a 4 day workshop in Santa Cruz along with our counterparts (the dudes we work with, or are supposed to work with in our sites). So Tuesday morning, after throwing our stuff in our bags and being bused all the way back to the city in the pouring rain, found ourselves giving 15 min. power point presentations in Spanish and trying not to fall asleep (we had a good bye party the night before, and not all of us were our 100%). But it actually went better than I thought, seeing as to how my counterpart actually came, which was a big surprise for me. So for the next three days we were booked from 8:30am to 6pm having a project design workshop, which although extremely boring, is quite useful. So by Friday night we were free. Ben and I spent Saturday in the city grocery shopping and picking up a few extra things, and finally made the trip back to Charagua last night. It feels really good to be back. I missed Oso, and was sad to discover that while I was gone got himself into a big dog fight. His jaw is all screwed up and he can’t walk on his front right leg. You can actually see the bite marks in it! But I think that with a little rest and food he’ll be back to normal in no time. I’ve got a ton of project ideas to do with CIAT and now with my counterpart, too. I’m excited to get started! I’ll tell you how everything goes once I get settled in more.